Grenache is considered the grape that went from footnote to headline, that South African winemakers once used as a reliable stalwart in blends but not considered particularly exciting on its own.
That is, until adventurous local winemakers started exploring beyond more traditional varieties, discovering old bushvines of the likes of chenin, cinsault, syrah and grenache, and pioneering remote areas like the Swartland.
Climate change was another impetus, as those more drought-resistant Mediterranean grapes, from regions with similar climates to SA in Italy, Spain and the southern Rhône of France, are more resilient and well-suited to an ever-hotter, ever-drier climate.
Grenache is actually a Spanish grape, called garnacha there, but such is the dominance of the Rhône, with famed grenache-based wines from areas like Châteauneuf-du-Pape, that the French name is more common.
However, Spain is leading the charge these days with cult-status grenache from regions like Priorat and Gredos, led by a new generation of winemakers who have driven a Spanish wine renaissance and focus on small, old parcels of vines, much like our Swartland revolution.
The Swartland and West Coast areas like Darling are key focus areas for grenache, but winemakers are increasingly sharpening focus onto the tiny Piekenierskloof wine-growing ward, between the Swartland and Olifantsrivier regions, where SA’s largest plantings of grenache are concentrated around Citrusdal.
Here, right on top of the Piekenierskloof mountain at 700-plus metres above sea level, the Piekenierskloof Wine Company holds about half of the grenache vineyards in the ward and is fast setting a benchmark for South African grenache.
Run by the fourth-generation Van Zyl brothers, Potgieter and Oubaas, the oldest of their unirrigated, bushvine grenache vineyards were planted in 1962 by their father, Carel, with the most prized 1973 vineyards planted from cuttings he brought back from Germany.
Piekenierskloof cellarmaster Alecia Boshoff explains that the area is ideal for growing premium grenache, with its high altitude giving sharp day-night temperature changes that slow the ripening process, and absolutely no irrigation.
These conditions force the vine to work harder, pushing roots deep in search of moisture, resulting in smaller berries and wines with concentrated flavours, intense fruit purity, fresh acidity, and elegant tannins — “exactly what grenache needs to develop complexity rather than just sugar”.
Boshoff’s enthusiasm for these stark, rocky mountains and their heritage vineyards is palpable when she says: “Grenache just wants to grow here — you can see it with the eye in summertime, when other vines are struggling and under stress, but grenache is flourishing throughout, no viruses, just super-green leaves, and beautiful, super-healthy fruit.
“And you can see it in the wines. We also work with grenache from Darling and Swartland, but these grapes are just the best, with freshness from natural acidity and the minerality that shines through.”
Piekenierskloof celebrates grenache’s heritage and versality in grenache blanc, grenache noir and grenache rosé wines and blends that showcase the grape’s typical vibrant red fruit, subtle spice and distinctive minerality.
Even before hearing about the Piekenierskloof location and backstory, their Grenache Blanc 2025 (R160 online, R145 Makro) gives a sense of the bracing cold air of its stony mountain peaks, because of its zinginess and zestiness, heady floral and green herb aromatics, and the clean purity of the fruit flavours — crisp apple, pears, grapefruit, lime.
The zest and zing mellows into a balance with softness and gentle spice, the texture rich and silky, balanced by stony minerality.
It’s an intriguing, exciting wine that offers different layers of interest with every sip — an experience of contrasting flavours and textures in the mouth that makes it a good food wine, with some interesting suggestions from the winemaker — pork belly cooked in milk with crispy crackling, Thai green curry, or soft cheeses served with preserves involving mango and ginger.
Piekenierskloof Grenache Rosé 2025 (R160 online) has lovely floral aromatics with naartjie marmalade notes, the wine delicate but also vibrant with the crunch of biting into an ice-cold strawberry or cherry, with mouthwatering savoury undertones.
Grenache is often described as “crunchy”, and the meaning becomes clear when tasting the Piekenierskloof Grenache Noir 2025 (R185 at the cellar), a red that’s super-fresh, full of dark juicy cherries, strawberries, the sour tang of cranberries and raspberries, underpinned with warm spices like cumin and cinnamon, touches of liquorice/aniseed.
The fine tannins lend a chalky minerality to a very more-ish finish.
Food-wise, grenache noir is a great partner to Asian or Middle Eastern spices, five-spice, a Baharat blend, cumin, coriander, intense savoury flavours like smoked meats, black olives and anchovies.
The standout Piekenierskloof Heirloom Red Blend 2024 (R250) channels southern Rhone style with shiraz, grenache, cinsault and mourvèdre, dark fruit with distinctive smokiness, savouriness and spice. Deeply delicious.
Exploring beyond grenache, Piekenierskloof is also well worth seeking out for chenin, cinsault, shiraz and pinotage, and their premium range of limited release, small site old vineyard wines.
Piekenierskloof Grenache Noir is available for sale at Bohemia Wine Bar in 8th Ave, Walmer, while selected Tops and other specialist liquor stores from Jeffreys Bay and along the Garden Route stock selected wines. Makro PE also has a small selection.