Bruce Jack is a winemaker who does things differently.
Differently, not just in the expected sense of seeking out diverse wine-growing areas and experimenting with different winemaking techniques, although he does do that, like many others.
And it’s also not just about the highly diverse portfolio of wines under the Bruce Jack brand umbrella, each with a distinct identity and a story to tell.
Spend some time reading the website and blogs at www.brucejack.com (where wines are grouped by helpful descriptions like “crunchy and perky” or “silky and brooding”); dip into the fascinating, really well-written articles on eclectic subjects, with excellent photography and design, in the Jack Journal magazine he publishes about twice a year; read the back labels, mindmap-style notes and taste descriptions on his bottles — and you’ll get a picture of a brand not dreamt up by a marketing team, but hands-on driven by the person who put his name to it.
The picture is of a creative, innovative, highly entrepreneurial and marketing-savvy individual, an intellectual and a philosopher with a sense of quirkiness and fun, serious but not taking himself too seriously, and putting social responsibility and environmental conservation into action.
While he clearly takes winemaking seriously, Jack’s approach to the consumer is absolutely non-snobbish, even at the premium levels of his wines.
No intimidating wine terminology or industry jargon; the brand speaks to consumers in everyday language, the wine labels are contemporary, funky, intriguing, and offer useful info, and the names are relatable, as well as conversation-starters.
Who doesn’t fancy a Hard Day Chardonnay as a reward after a tough day? Or relate to a wine called Boer Maak ‘n Plan Chenin — a typical South African saying for a signature SA grape.
Wine must bring joy to life, he believes, sparking conversations, provoking thought, bringing people together; and it must deliver value.
Whether it’s the lower-priced, high volume, easy-drinking “lifestyle” wines or the niche and premium wines showcasing remarkable stories of people and places, or the distinctive terroir of his The Drift estate in the Overberg Highlands near Napier, Jack believes price must always over-deliver for quality.
Value is also about standing for something — all companies should stand for something, and consumers have a right to demand to know what that is, he says.
The winery is a leader in Fairtrade certification and aims for carbon-neutral production, with every bottle sold contributing to causes focused on ocean awareness and revitalisation, environmental rejuvenation and social upliftment through education.
These find practical expressions in initiatives such as surf therapy, community gardens, rhino conservation (the Kariega Foundation in the Eastern Cape is a partner), green energy generation and a focus on music education in impoverished, rural areas in honour of his musician mother.
It is the brand’s combination of premium quality with demystifying wine in the interests of consumer-friendliness and inclusivity, and demonstrating that wines can be commercially successful while holding to ethical standards and supporting surrounding communities, that earned them a place in the top 50 of the World’s Most Admired Wine Brands earlier this year.
That marked Bruce Jack’s sixth appearance on the list published by the respected Drinks International magazine, selected by a global panel of 100 sommeliers, buyers, wholesalers, Masters of Wine and writers who base their selections on consistency, quality and value, the strength of the brand and marketing voice, heritage, sustainability and social responsibility.
Reflecting the diverse strengths of South Africa’s wine industry, the only other SA brand in the top 50, also for a sixth time, is Kanonkop — a heritage brand in contrast to Bruce Jack’s youth, globally renowned as an icon of SA wine and producer of premium, investment-worthy wines like Paul Sauer.
For an introduction to the value-for-quality, creativity and consumer-friendliness of Bruce Jack’s wines, the “lifestyle” range is a great starting point. Exclusive to SPAR TOPS (R82,99, and often on special), these are a favourite everyday go-to.
The widely available Bruce Jack Reserve range is ridiculously good value at R160 for 4*-rated wines — the Reserve Pinotage and Stream of Consciousness blend highly recommended.
And then, shared in celebration of the award, there is Moveable Feast 2020 (±R325), an estate blend from The Drift, mostly Syrah and Malbec, blending in unusual Italian and Portuguese grapes, the intention to make a wine that reflects what is special about their “corner of the universe” in the Overberg.
The result is a wine that’s intense and intriguing, aromatic with bold anise and pepper spiciness, the fruit deep, dark, juicy, concentrated flavours balancing fresh fruit and raisins, a dry tang that prickles the tongue, rich savouriness lingering and demanding another sip to dive back into the deliciousness.
Never mind a find of the week, this is my find of the year!
Made for moveable feasts, unhurried gatherings around food, good music, loads of chat and laughter, a fitting reflection of what Jack is doing to make premium wine accessible, easy to enjoy, non-intimidating — fun, even.